bloodthirst Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I put new break pads and rotors on my car 6mos. ago and the new ones are warped already. If at all possible, I'd like to avoid a pricey repair. Any ideas what might be causing me to go through break rotors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I put new break pads and rotors on my car 6mos. ago and the new ones are warped already. If at all possible, I'd like to avoid a pricey repair. Any ideas what might be causing me to go through break rotors? not trying to be rude... but maybe the way you drive? I have had the same problem haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bloodthirst Posted April 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 not trying to be rude... but maybe the way you drive? I have had the same problem haha Possible, but I really try not to beat the crap out of the car and don't jam on the brakes all at once like alot of people do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlinclimo Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Could be bad calipers. Had the same problem. Pads every four months rotors every six. Or crap aftermarket parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I put new break pads and rotors on my car 6mos. ago and the new ones are warped already. If at all possible, I'd like to avoid a pricey repair. Any ideas what might be causing me to go through break rotors? What kind of car are you driving? I had a GrandAm that went though breaks and routers every 6 months and i did find that if i got the cheaper routers and breaks thhat they last only a few months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest grillman Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I'd have to agree with the poster that said you probably got crap aftermarket parts. Don't buy the cheapest parts. 'Better' American made parts cost a lot more, but better than junk from China. If you drive down big hills and ride your brakes alot, they will heat up and warp. You don't have to jam the brakes to do it. You could downshift to a lower gear if you need to brake for long periods ( don't forget to shift back up). Just some thoughts I had. By the way, some mechanics, maybe not all, will put the cheapest parts on and because of they're markup, you think you're getting 'better' parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salsa88 Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I put new break pads and rotors on my car 6mos. ago and the new ones are warped already. If at all possible, I'd like to avoid a pricey repair. Any ideas what might be causing me to go through break rotors? A couple quick questions. Front or rear drive car? Front wheel bearings torqued to specs? @ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Parking brake "on" enough to cause a drag? Don't laugh, I had my car to the mechanic several times and they were always happy to replace the brakes at my expense. One day I found that my parking brake was not completely disengaged when I pulled on it firmly thinking I was doing the hood release. Funny all these "expert" auto mechanics never found the actual "problem". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 If you just "serviced" ur brakes 6 months ago and are having problems, perhaps you're not a qualified to do brake jobs as you initially thought. Did you service the calipers at all? Slide pins and/or guides have to be lubricated. It's not just a matter of installing new pads and a rotor and then off you go. There could be excessive runout even with NEW parts. You could be over torqued on the lugs. You may have improperly installed everything. If you are an agressive driver who brakes hard, then I would strongly suggest slotted rotors with minimum crossdrilling as well. Not the swiss cheese rotors with 3000 holes but a quality set that has 3 or 4 holes between each of 5 or 6 slots. Once you have a quality rotor, now you have choices in pad selection. Carbon/Kevlar or carbon/metallic will give awesome brake bite, some dust, and long life. They will also wear down a rotor faster than a lower quality pad. Sounds more like you didn't do a thurough inspection of your brake components. That's what happens when you don't know what you are doing. Autozone, Advance Auto, NAPA, etc, exsist because guys think they know how to work on cars. Next thing you know, you're asking people on BCVoice for help. Good hands, Allstate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy the Kid Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I put new break pads and rotors on my car 6mos. ago and the new ones are warped already. If at all possible, I'd like to avoid a pricey repair. Any ideas what might be causing me to go through break rotors? You should have brought it to the garage in the first place. Your calipers are probably froze up and need to be replaced. @ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bloodthirst Posted April 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I would like to thank everyone who responded to me in this matter. I knew there would be people who would say "take it to the garage" but I will not pay $400 for $200 worth of parts for a simple repair that anyone can do. To the person who said something about me not knowing what I am doing, I may not be Mr. Goodwrench, but I know that you have to lubricate the pins on brakes, and I have been working on my own cars since I was 16. The car in question has served me well and is paid off in full with 60K miles on it. I will continue to do repairs within my ability even if it upsets garages who think I am obligated to pay for service. Once again thanx. By the way, I spoke to a guy I know that is an ASE certified mechanic and he told me that brake calipers are easy to change as long as you don't let air get into the lines. I think I'll give it a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy the Kid Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 I would like to thank everyone who responded to me in this matter. I knew there would be people who would say "take it to the garage" but I will not pay $400 for $200 worth of parts for a simple repair that anyone can do. To the person who said something about me not knowing what I am doing, I may not be Mr. Goodwrench, but I know that you have to lubricate the pins on brakes, and I have been working on my own cars since I was 16. The car in question has served me well and is paid off in full with 60K miles on it. I will continue to do repairs within my ability even if it upsets garages who think I am obligated to pay for service. Once again thanx. By the way, I spoke to a guy I know that is an ASE certified mechanic and he told me that brake calipers are easy to change as long as you don't let air get into the lines. I think I'll give it a shot. Yeah you have proven that haven't you! Oh and tell your friend that ASE has failed him. There is no way to change a caliper without letting air in the system. No matter what when you change a caliper, you will need to bleed the barkes. There's some free advice for you from a real ASE Certified mechanic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bloodthirst Posted April 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Yeah you have proven that haven't you! Oh and tell your friend that ASE has failed him. There is no way to change a caliper without letting air in the system. No matter what when you change a caliper, you will need to bleed the barkes. There's some free advice for you from a real ASE Certified mechanic. He said that if you clamp off the the line, you only get a little air and only have to bleed a little bit. If you leave it open, you'll be bleeding it all day. Is he wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlinclimo Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 He said that if you clamp off the the line, you only get a little air and only have to bleed a little bit. If you leave it open, you'll be bleeding it all day. Is he wrong?Verry much so. First there is no way to clamp off any brake line without doing damage to the line. Second even if you bench blead the caliper you still get air in the line from the hose. Lastly if done correctly it dosent take longer than 5 min to blead the entire system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewbacca Posted April 4, 2008 Report Share Posted April 4, 2008 Verry much so. First there is no way to clamp off any brake line without doing damage to the line. Second even if you bench blead the caliper you still get air in the line from the hose. Lastly if done correctly it dosent take longer than 5 min to blead the entire system. Yeah what BTK said. Any fool can pass an ASE test. Not knocking the test ASE does great things but dont always think a patch and a sign mean they know what they are doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy the Kid Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 He said that if you clamp off the the line, you only get a little air and only have to bleed a little bit. If you leave it open, you'll be bleeding it all day. Is he wrong? Either way it is the same process. Clamp the line off, you lose less fluid but you will still have to bleed the air out of the caliper. Not a big job, if you have someone who can pump up the brakes while you bleed them. While you are at it, you may want to consider changing the rubber brake hoses, I have seen a lot of times where your problem has been misdiagnosed as bad calipers when all along the brake hoses have swelled up on the inside not allowing the fluid to return up the line to the master cylinder and holding pressure on the brakes and wearing them out faster than usual. A simple test to check if that is the case would be to pump up the brakes 5 to 6 times, then release the pedal, then open a bleeder screw on one caliper and see if there is fluid pressure (see if the fluid squirts out under pressure) if it does, suspect the hose is swelled up. Do this on each front wheel and either rear wheel. If not then the caliper is most likely sticking and needs to be changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy the Kid Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Yeah what BTK said. Any fool can pass an ASE test. Not knocking the test ASE does great things but dont always think a patch and a sign mean they know what they are doing. ASE is an online system that anyone can pay for and take the test. Doesn't necessarily make you a mechanic. Years of experience makes the mechanic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy the Kid Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Either way it is the same process. Clamp the line off, you lose less fluid but you will still have to bleed the air out of the caliper. Not a big job, if you have someone who can pump up the brakes while you bleed them. While you are at it, you may want to consider changing the rubber brake hoses, I have seen a lot of times where your problem has been misdiagnosed as bad calipers when all along the brake hoses have swelled up on the inside not allowing the fluid to return up the line to the master cylinder and holding pressure on the brakes and wearing them out faster than usual. A simple test to check if that is the case would be to pump up the brakes 5 to 6 times, then release the pedal, then open a bleeder screw on one caliper and see if there is fluid pressure (see if the fluid squirts out under pressure) if it does, suspect the hose is swelled up. Do this on each front wheel and either rear wheel. If not then the caliper is most likely sticking and needs to be changed. Or you may want to just bring it to me and I won't rape you on fixing it for you! @ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Yup....play it on the cheap with your brakes. Do so with tires as well. After all, they are the components that mean the most to the welfare of everyone that rides in your car or is on the road with you. @ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Hmmmm ..... The OP saved half by doing it himself. Now he has to do it again - watta maroon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest know it all Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 if you are warping your fronts that fast then more than likely your rear brakes are not working properly and over heating the front brakes @ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 Get a stick shift and you'll hardly ever change the brakes! @ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 I just have one thing to say about ASE certification. I went to take the test once for Refrigeration Recovery. The instructor went over what was in the book and when it was time to take the test he said that he was leaving the room and good luck. I did look around the room and found most of the people there were getting their answers from the book. I have no respect for ASE certification. Incidently, I did not cheat and scored a 96. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ASICIT Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 I've posted here twice regarding how some mechanics think that nobody can do a brake job but themselves. Mysteriously they are gone. Didn't like what I had to say? It's funny that there are disagreements all over this board but when it effects a certain person then the delete button is activated. Well, you can't have your ball back....I'm keeping it and going home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 I just have one thing to say about ASE certification. I went to take the test once for Refrigeration Recovery. The instructor went over what was in the book and when it was time to take the test he said that he was leaving the room and good luck. I did look around the room and found most of the people there were getting their answers from the book. I have no respect for ASE certification. Incidently, I did not cheat and scored a 96. OH BOY!!!! You scored a 96!!!! Refrigeration is not rocket science. That's why most of the repairmen look like vagabonds. Only a bum would want to do refrig his whole career. Suction and discharge,........turns me on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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